January 31, 2013

Channeling my inner Elisalex

Elisalex Dress

The Goal: I've been eager to sew this dress ever since I got the pattern in the mail (all the way from England!) and I also wanted to do some stash busting. I don't have a huge stash but I do have some fabric that's been sitting around forever yearning to be made into a super cool garment.

The Pattern: By Hand London is a new indie pattern company! Right now they have the Elisalex Dress and the Charlotte Skirt pattern out, both named after some of the ladies who founded BHL.


The packaging is pretty cool - the pattern comes with a cover with a cutout to reveal the design illustration. The inner envelop has pattern info, more images, instruction booklet (with lots of graphics, yay!) and the pattern itself.

What's nice is that they list each size in typical US and UK sizing and the instructions are thorough and detailed. Luckily this dress is pretty self explanatory so I didn't even need to reference the instructions that much. The whole dress came together surprisingly quick!

Elisalex Dress

The Fabric: This geometric print was bought locally at The Common Thread about two years ago. I originally intended to make a strapless Vogue cocktail dress with it but let's face it - if I haven't made it in two years it ain't ever gonna get made. Might as well use the fabric for something useful.

I don't remember exactly how much fabric I had bought but it wasn't enough to make the long sleeve version but I managed to get the shorter sleeves out of this fabric.

Elisalex Dress

The fabric is quite stiff. The pattern calls for almost upholstery weight fabric to get that crisp look from the skirt pleats and I think this fabric holds its shape well.

Elisalex Dress

The black is some cotton sateen leftover from former projects which I used for the sides of the bodice 'cause I couldn't squeeze out any more space from the geometric print. I think it's a happy accident!

The Changes: Because of my fabric limits I had to cut the skirt shorter (by about 7"). The original length is quite long but the pattern allows you to make any size hem you want so it's nice to have the pieces longer just in case.

Elisalex Dress

I also made a neckline facing rather than lining the bodice. The only lining fabric I had was a poly which gets hot, yuck, so I made a facing by tracing the neckline pieces. I managed to piece together the facing out of scraps, interfaced it, stitched it on and understitched to keep it from rolling out.

Elisalex Dress

I used an invisible zip because I couldn't find a long enough zipper locally for that cool exposed zipper look. If you're in the US and take the time to plan, unlike me, you can order super long metal zippers from WAWAK (the #5's for jackets are probably your best best, they come in several colors, thanks Susan!)

One thing that helped though - making a muslin. The bodice is very fitted (they even tell you that on the envelope!) and while it fit great on my b-cup frame, ladies with more generous busts might need adjustment (but princess seams are pretty easy to alter, the pattern even suggests sewing smaller seam allowances at the bust apex area for more room for the girls, great idea!).

Elisalex Dress

I made a partial muslin first and discovered that the size 6US was too tight so for my real version I made a size 8US and the fit in the bust and waist is perfect. I'm 5'6" and the waistline hits right at my natural waist.

Elisalex Dress

I had some issues with the sleeve cap, though, like the cap part itself was too wide for my arm. I shaved off a little on the back side but I think I need to do more. The fabric keeps wanting to fold in on itself around the armhole. I think with this busy print it's not that noticable, though, so I won't bother with it.

Elisalex Dress

The only other thing I might change next time is adjusting the shoulder angle, my outer shoulders are pretty square.

The Results: This design is super cute and very "me". Elisalex and I must be kindred style spirits because this dress has lots of features I like in a dress - a cinched in natural waist, wide scoop neck, a skirt that's flared at the hips, and sleeves! They should have called it the Dixielex dress (btw, yay for girls with X's in their names, it is the most badass letter of our alphabet afterall...)

Elisalex Dress

32 comments:

  1. It turned out beautifully! I love the geometric fabric and the side paneling - while a "happy accident" - is a really cool and flattering feature! Total winner!

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  2. The black side panels are gorgeous! They compliment the geometric fabric really well!

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  3. omg this is fabulous. excellent fabric choices!

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  4. It looks really great with that necklace! And you're welcome on the zipper reco... Though I have so many in my stash now, both you and I can probably avoid buying anymore for quite a while. :-) Love your jumping pic!

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    1. haha, thanks, jumping pics are fun ;)

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  5. This is too adorable for words, and I love the black side bodice pieces! You and Lauren from Lladybird have both made the most adorable things from this pattern company, I clearly need to get on this! So amazing, I adore this!

    strugglesewsastraightseam.wordpress.com

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    1. thanks leah! i like lauren's version, too, she's got great fabrics.

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  6. super cute! the print of the fabric looks awesome with the black colour blocked section. Nice choice!

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  7. I agree with you & your readers, I think the black side panels are a great feature- they really highlight the beautiful design of the dress.

    There's something so satisfying about finishing a project and realising that it's perfectly 'you'.... after investing all that time and effort, you now have a gorgeous dress that you'll not only wear often but also love wearing

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    1. you're right, i'm really liking this dress! thanks jenny!

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  8. The Dixielex!!! LOVE IT. Even more badass with 2 X's! The dress is absolutely delicious and the black panelling is such an elegant feature. I'm totally living in my Hot Cocoa Sweater btw, and am waiting to whip up another in a beautiful ribbed thermal knit to photograph them both - even thinking to draft a pair of matching long johns to go with the thermal version :)

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    1. that's awesome! i'm glad you liked the pattern. we're like pattern buddies now :)

      thanks for making a totally cool pattern!

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  9. Ohh turn out lovely.. I love the dark panels yummmm I'm going to steal the idea lol

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  10. Wow! Really great! And that necklace with it totally ROCKS!

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  11. Those panels work so well! I've seen a similar dark oanels on designer dresses in the last year or so, which kind of creates an optical illusion which makes the waist look narrower.
    The print is also super-cool.
    BTW, sewed up your hot chocolate sweater and I LOVE it. Be posting about it soon, it deserves all the props.

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    1. yeah, i like the optical illusion bit. ;) thanks!

      and I'm so glad you liked the sweater pattern!!

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  12. Your dress turned out great. I love the fabric and the contrast in the bodice, as well as your styling with the necklace.

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  13. Oh wow! I'm in love with this fabric!! With a colorfull necklace it gives a beautiful looks :)

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  14. Hey this is cool and the fabric is perfect for the dress. Lovely.

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  15. This is gorgeous!! The fabric is amazing and I can't even imagine it without the contrasting patterns - I think it really defines the waist shape and makes the pattern pop! x

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  16. Love this! It's too cute! I have this pattern and have been dying to make it!

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  17. Very cute! I LOVE the black side panels, I think it emphasises the design lines which might have otherwise got lost in a busy print. That geometric fabric is awesome. Thanks for the tips on this pattern, I have it also and was toying with whether or not to give it a go.

    Zoe x

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  18. That geometric print is wonderful! You look sensational in your dress.

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  19. This looks really cool in the fabric you've used but I'd suggest (if you're making it again) to shorten the skirt portion (while maintaining the spooled shape) or increase the tapering because in it's current version it seems to shorten your height. The black side panels are sheer genius-they make your waist tiny!

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  20. I love your version of this dress! The fabric choice is awesome, and that happy accident with the side panels just makes it more interesting! :)

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  21. The print is so cute with the black contrast, and it looks awesome on you!

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